At the border crossing from Croatia into Bosnia, my bus pulls to a stop next to a bus parked and pointed in the opposite direction. There’s an elderly couple in the set of seats just outside my window, and we smile and wave at each other while we wait. He wears a yellow and blue plaid shirt and she wears gold earrings that dangle from under a puff of white hair.  The man unearths a bottle of schnapps, pours a few drops in the lid for his wife, and they hold up their bottle and thimble in a toast to me. I laugh and hold an imaginary glass so I may join in. They slug down their drinks, and she taps her chest as he gives a visible, “Ahhh,” of refreshment. I am so delighted that I can barely contain myself, pressing my hand against my heart and dropping my…