The Canadians displayed flags on their belongings like people flaunting their wealth, like North American nationalists swinging through Bosnia and wanting to ensure that they counted, that they were walking totems of respectful curiosity. One fascinating cultural lesson they learned was that in this Sarajevo café it was typical to share tables with strangers.  This they learned under the direction of a local couple that stopped at their table, staring down at the flag-emblazoned backpack and other objects occupying two empty seats.

Even as the Canadians apologetically shifted their belongings into their laps and gestured to the now available places, the couple gave only a quick nod of acceptance. They sat. They ordered. They waited, pretending to be distracted, until their tea arrived. He took the lemon from her saucer. She touched his knee under the table. The tourists made a friendly remark that fell unheeded.

So the Canadians turned…