Maybe it was the impact of the sky and the water, but even the narrow road had its charm. Driving the curves, or walking on the crumbling shoulder that grew steeper over the coast, could leave one feeling essentially immortal.

A moped passed with a boy and girl riding together. She wrapped her arms around him so he took risks, passing on the middle line, weaving so she would cling to him more ferociously, her laugh bouncing up the hills.